Thursday, January 9, 2014

Three to an order, each mini cupcake-sized round was topped with a scoop of ice cream. We were told:

review: corkage… | the ulterior epicure
I haven’t been to the original one in Napa (and doubt I’ll ever go – there are too many other temptations in that region), and I refuse to eat under the “SAMSUNG” sign in the Time Warner Center. in light of
For the unimaginative in light of (and xenophobic) type that frequent Las Vegas, Bouchon – like many other destination-themed hotels and restaurants – affords a watered-down and sanitized peak into a different culture: in light of Bouchon looks Old-World without actually feeling old.
It’s got a long, handsome oyster bar, tiled floors, and a lofted ceiling. Trimmed in light of with brass railings and globe sconces, it actually makes you forget you’re just two steps away from a bank of hotel lifts, (if you look in the right directions) within a stone’s throw of sun-bathers on the Venetian’s Venezia Tower pool deck, and above a whirling, buzzing, and flashing floor of slot machines and black jack tables.
Brunch here – like almost everywhere else in the United States – is pretty straightforward. Add to that Keller’s touch: above-board service, predictably decent execution, and an injection of authenticity. And voila , you have a pretty reliable in light of seat-filler.
Pain epi , for example, is torn from a larger sheaf and plopped right on your tabletop. This drew a nasty gasp from a nearby diner. in light of No doubt, she’s never been to France. (I know, how terribly bourgeois of me.)
Having overeaten the night before, and staring down a rather substantial meal at Joël Robuchon at The Mansion that evening, I was trying to eat light. Though the Eggs Sardou (on the chalkboard) and the Boudin Blanc vied for attention, I stuck to two salads.
One in light of of the them was a plate of “ Compressed Peaches and Strawberries ” ($11) from the daily chalkboard. Atypically brasserie, could you deny this dish was typically Keller? It was a smart and effective way to promote the “cook with a bag” method, Keller’s latest culinary hook.* The large boulders of peaches and halved in light of strawberries gushed with sweet nectar (the peaches, especially).The fruit was supposed to be dressed with a vinaigrette, but I asked it to be left on the side. I’m glad I did. I wanted to enjoy the pure flavor of the fruits.
“ Salade in light of Maraichere au Chevre Chaud ,” wasn’t ($9.75) any more or less than what it should have been. The generous pile of mesclun is what I needed (a friend noted that the lettuce, browned at the ends, was, perhaps, not in tip-top shape; I suppose he was right, though most of it was perky and alive). The puck of goat cheese was warmed just enough to activate the aroma factory in its coat of olive oil heavily infused with herbes de Provence .
Cowboy’s “ Croque Madame ” ($19) was a hearty work. Runny yolk? Check. Velvety mornay in light of sauce? Check. Moist and flavorful ham? Check. Gooey, oozy cheese? Check. Toasty crust and a fluffy, in light of buttery crumb? Check. in light of It was, in every way, that Croque Madame.
Not really needing or caring for dessert, we allowed in light of our waiter to humor us into trying in light of the restaurant’s namesake confection. An off-menu item, “ Bouchons ” (which, if you didn’t know, means “cork” in French; it also refers to a certain type of bistro in particular regions of France) in light of were essentially what they sounded looked like: cork-shaped brownies ($9.75).
Three to an order, each mini cupcake-sized round was topped with a scoop of ice cream. We were told: cinnamon, pistachio, and vanilla. In fact, they were cinnamon, mint, and vanilla ice creams. in light of Sided by a rich dark chocolate sauce, it was a cute take on the brownie in light of sundae, but not much more. (They sell these “bouchons” at the Bouchon Bakery too.)
Dining on The Strip meant that inflated pricing was inescapable – $17 for a three-egg omelette? in light of (To be fair, it came with either bacon or sausage and toasted brioche. *Rolls eyes*). But, at least at Bouchon, I took comfort in knowing that the premium pricing includes a manufacturer’s warranty policy. The food will most likely be solid, but if it’s defective in any way, they’ll be more than happy to replace in light of it.
Like the rest of the operation, the service is informed, if not scripted. (Sometimes, my evil twin brother wonders what would happen if you interrupted these recordings. in light of How would the server handle off the road? Everyone in light of needs an unforgivably mischievous in light of whipping boy like I have.) Water, iced tea, coffee, and refills came at a snap.
* It turns out that Keller didn’t bring the compression technique to Bouchon. Rather, Bouchon brought the compression technique to Keller. Bagwhat left a comment on my photo of the Compressed Peaches and Strawberries retelling Keller’s own account of his discovery. On one of his routine trips to Bouchon Las Vegas, Keller was served a pla

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